The Traditional Molise Society
For centuries, and until a few decades ago, the social structure of the people of Molise was characterized by a division into classes: the "galantuomini" (the so-called "civilians"), the "massari" (landowners), the "artieri" (artisans), and the "cafoni" (peasants).
The first group held authority and prestige and wielded real power, both civil and economic, over the other classes. Upon their appearance on the street, one was expected to greet them devoutly, removing one's "coppola" (cap). Over time, however, the class of galantuomini gradually lost prestige due to the less than irreproachable conduct of its representatives, who were mostly without profession or family, often living in concubinage, thereby undermining the family as the center of civil coexistence.
The old aristocracy, in terms of social importance, was replaced by a plebeian one: landowners, artisans, and merchants competed to produce professionals and clerks for society. Only the peasants remained in their primitive, miserable state, living with a bit of land to farm and offering their labor, for various compensations, to the galantuomini and massari. Those who wanted to escape these conditions emigrated to the distant Americas. Some, after making good savings, returned to buy a few "tomoli" of land and a small house.
The condition of women also changed over time: they used to hoe, reap, do everything like men, go to the woods to gather wood, and fetch water from the fountain, carrying the copper jug on their heads; they were also kept in subjection. Gradually, however, they were freed from these heavy tasks and dedicated themselves to domestic work, wool weaving, preparing the dowry for their daughters, cultivating the garden, and taking care of the poultry.
As for the way of dressing, it is worth noting that the peasants' clothing respects an ancient tradition and is characterized by a strong resemblance to the garments worn in various towns. For example, the wide woolen cloak, black in color, with a lambskin collar, is worn by men who have "uose" (short trousers) and a small jacket. Women wear high bodices with colorful ribbons, pleated skirts, "zinali" (aprons), "mandazini" (large handkerchiefs with big floral motifs), as well as fabrics of silk, cotton, and linen (once, there were even silkworm farms, cotton cultivation, especially in neighboring Campania, and flax). They also wore jewelry of little value, scant in gold content, such as necklaces, "puntantiffe" (pins), rings, and other ornaments, to complete an elegant attire, indicating a somewhat refined feminine taste.
Today, few traditional costumes are preserved, and most of those we see on village occasions worn by folklore groups are recently made, although very similar to the originals, examples of which are kept by some families and provide precise indications for new creations.
For centuries, and until a few decades ago, the social structure of the people of Molise was characterized by a division into classes: the "galantuomini" (the so-called "civilians"), the "massari" (landowners), the "artieri" (artisans), and the "cafoni" (peasants).
The first group held authority and prestige and wielded real power, both civil and economic, over the other classes. Upon their appearance on the street, one was expected to greet them devoutly, removing one's "coppola" (cap). Over time, however, the class of galantuomini gradually lost prestige due to the less than irreproachable conduct of its representatives, who were mostly without profession or family, often living in concubinage, thereby undermining the family as the center of civil coexistence.
The old aristocracy, in terms of social importance, was replaced by a plebeian one: landowners, artisans, and merchants competed to produce professionals and clerks for society. Only the peasants remained in their primitive, miserable state, living with a bit of land to farm and offering their labor, for various compensations, to the galantuomini and massari. Those who wanted to escape these conditions emigrated to the distant Americas. Some, after making good savings, returned to buy a few "tomoli" of land and a small house.
The condition of women also changed over time: they used to hoe, reap, do everything like men, go to the woods to gather wood, and fetch water from the fountain, carrying the copper jug on their heads; they were also kept in subjection. Gradually, however, they were freed from these heavy tasks and dedicated themselves to domestic work, wool weaving, preparing the dowry for their daughters, cultivating the garden, and taking care of the poultry.
As for the way of dressing, it is worth noting that the peasants' clothing respects an ancient tradition and is characterized by a strong resemblance to the garments worn in various towns. For example, the wide woolen cloak, black in color, with a lambskin collar, is worn by men who have "uose" (short trousers) and a small jacket. Women wear high bodices with colorful ribbons, pleated skirts, "zinali" (aprons), "mandazini" (large handkerchiefs with big floral motifs), as well as fabrics of silk, cotton, and linen (once, there were even silkworm farms, cotton cultivation, especially in neighboring Campania, and flax). They also wore jewelry of little value, scant in gold content, such as necklaces, "puntantiffe" (pins), rings, and other ornaments, to complete an elegant attire, indicating a somewhat refined feminine taste.
Today, few traditional costumes are preserved, and most of those we see on village occasions worn by folklore groups are recently made, although very similar to the originals, examples of which are kept by some families and provide precise indications for new creations.